6 Eras of Akihabara: Amanoya

In this interview, we sat down with Fumiko Amano from Amanoya, a historic amazake (sweet fermented rice drink) shop founded in 1846, to hear about the changing face of Akihabara from the post-war era to modern times.

A Quest for Revenge? From Miyazu to Edo
Our roots actually trace back to Miyazu in Kyoto. It all began when our ancestors, who lived near Amanohashidate, traveled to Edo. As the story goes, the younger brother of our ancestor was a master swordsman. While training at the Chiba Dojo in Kanda, he was killed by a rival challenging the dojo. Given the era, his older brother felt he had no choice but to avenge him. He relied on Myoshinji Temple in Kyoto for support, but back then, there were no photos, and he didn't even know what the killer looked like. In those days, you couldn't return home without fulfilling your revenge, so he became stranded in Edo, unable to go back. That's when he was granted this piece of land. To make a living, he utilized a underground fermentation cellar (muro) on the property to start making koji (malted rice), miso, and amazake. That was the beginning of Amanoya.

Since this location was once along the Nakasendo highway - the main road to Nihonbashi - it was constantly filled with travelers. Thinking the target of his revenge might pass by, he even built a tea house here.

Everyday Wisdom: Koji as a Source of Vitality
- Salt koji became quite a trend a few years back, didn't it?
Well, miso is made simply from salt, koji, and soybeans. Incorporating koji into our diets isn't some recent discovery. Japanese people have been eating it for centuries. That's why I believe people back then were physically much stronger. You couldn't just easily go to a doctor like you can today. While lords could afford sugar, ordinary folks couldn't, so amazake served as a natural substitute for sugar. So, with all due respect to the younger generation, I honestly think people back then were far healthier!

As the Town Changes, So Do the Guests
- The area must have changed drastically since World War II. What kind of customers do you see these days?
Because Akihabara is so close, we definitely see a lot more young people now. In the old days, that wasn't the case at all. You'd see grandmothers with their grandchildren, or young married couples, but you'd never see teenagers coming in on their own. Nowadays, when there's a concert nearby or an event at Kanda Myojin Shrine, people always make a point to drop by on their way home. Since Ochanomizu Station is closer, some guests swing by our shop first and then head home via Akihabara Station.

A few years ago, our shop was featured in an in-flight magazine. We actually had a guest who read the article and came straight here directly from Haneda Airport! They wanted to enjoy a cup of amazake here before exploring the town. Just yesterday, we welcomed guests from France. Someone had recommended us to them, and through word of mouth, they came back and brought several more friends along.

- I didn't originally associate amazake with being served chilled. Do you change how you offer it depending on the season?
We serve it chilled right now, but during cold periods like New Year's, we serve it warm. Though even in the dead of summer, some people still prefer it hot!

There used to be a Yacchaba (former Kanda Market) near here. The market workers would come drink amazake three times a day. They'd drink a cup, head back to work, and say things like, "This is my power food!" Others would say, "I feel a cold coming on, so I came for a drink," bringing along fellow workers with them. Drinking warm amazake warms you up right from the inside. A few days later, they'd come back and say, "I'm all cured now!" before heading off.

Amano-san Herself is the Best Advertisement
My elder sister, who ran the shop alongside me until last year, passed away peacefully about a year ago, almost like falling asleep. She said "Goodnight" in the evening and simply didn't wake up the next morning. I think it was the most beautiful way to go.

- Listening to your stories about the post-war era and the former Kanda Market... if you don't mind me asking, how old are you?
I'm 79! My sister was 14 years older than me. My husband has passed away as well, so now I've ended up being the oldest one here.

Speaking with a gentle smile, Amano-san appears remarkably youthful. While her stories about the health benefits of amazake and koji are convincing, simply seeing her vibrant energy is perhaps the absolute best advertisement for her shop.